Restaurant Review: Garden by Su, Bengaluru

Despite ticking off at least 60 eateries on my Bengaluru culinary hit list in the past two years, I haven't been able to feature a restaurant review on the blog. I figured that unless I was intentional about it, it most likely wouldn't happen. 

On my mother's side of the family, all of my relatives reside in South Bengaluru, all clustered fairly close to one another. This is a bit of a bummer for me because my family lives diametrically opposite to them in a city where nagivating traffic is almost always a nightmare. 

My solution is simple - whenever my cousins and I decide to catch up (invariably over a meal), we choose a venue that is equidistant for all of us, usually somewhere in the central business district. Sometimes, I coax them to travel all the way to the North, which they graciously agree to and then there are times when it is my turn to make the lonely journey South. 

It is unfortunate (for me) that a majority of the buzzworthy restaurants are concentrated in Jayanagar and JP Nagar in South Bengaluru. I don't mind travelling to Indiranagar but anything beyond that feels like a bit of a haul. Whenever I do have to venture that far, I use the metro by default. Not only is it fast, clean and cheap, but it is comfortable too. I pointedly refuse to feel miserable stuck behind a sea of honking cars so I avoid putting myself in such situations. On a related note, sending my kids to school by school bus and choosing a place of work that is only a 15-minute commute from home are probably reasons why even after two years of moving to Bengaluru, the notorious traffic has never been a point of contention for me 😁 So if any returning NRIs are reading this, you now know my secret to safeguarding my mental health and wellbeing 😆

For our most recent outing, we chose a restaurant that just so happened to be a recent addition to my restaurant wishlist. Located off a main road of Jayanagar, a short walk away from the Rashtreeya Vidyalaya Metro station, Garden by Su is a serene little green escape from the city. This is a plant-filled, airy cafe that strikes a harmonious balance between style and soul. 

I arrived fashionably early (which really ought be a thing btw 😂) so I was greeted by a completely empty restaurant. Not one to waste any opportunity, I explored every inch of the space at leisure. 

True to its name, Garden by Su welcomes its diners with lush greenery, thoughtfully placed potted plants, natural wood furniture, and an overall earthy, minimalist aesthetic. There is a gentle indoor meets outdoor vibe which is apt for Bengaluru's pleasant weather and the soft music and natural lighting create a soothing atmosphere. It struck me as the kind of place where you instinctively lower your voice and lean into conversation. 

There are a few instaworthy spots in the restaurant which I instantly recognized from social media. I do my research folks 😛

As my cousins began to arrive one after the other, we chose a cosy nook in the outdoor seating area and settled down. 

The restaurant is completely vegetarian, offering a good mix of both light, healthy dishes as well as indulgent fare. The menu leans into clean, global café fare with a healthy slant. Jain-friendly, vegan and gluten-free options are available for those with dietary restrictions and/or allergies. There are interesting beverages, nourishing bowls, refreshing salads, appetisers from around the world, artisanal sandwiches, brick oven sourdough bakes, hand-rolled and fresh pastas, creative mains and decadent desserts. 

Since we were a group of five, we decided to order multiple dishes and share. We tried to order from different categories keeping in mind the seasonality of dishes. 

Here is a line-up of what we ordered:

Recipe of the month: Beetroot-Apple Salad

We have a water apple tree in our backyard that has been around for more than a decade, inconspicuously blending into the vegetation. It had never borne fruit until the year we permanently relocated to India. If I wasn't a realist, it would almost seem like divine approval! Jokes apart, let me tell you why that would be nothing more than wishful thinking 😀 

Pre-relocation, when we renovated the first floor of our home in Bengaluru and added a second floor, a large part of our garden was, unfortunately, collateral damage. A few trees had to be cut down (our beloved pomegranate tree was one of them 😢), a great degree of soil erosion took place and with all the cement and paint spatters, the soil lost much of its vitality. Several plants simply stopped flowering and fruiting in that ~1.5-year duration. We felt terribly guilty about the aftermath and promised ourselves that once the construction was completed, we would make it a priority to restore whatever we could.

Our backyard has been home to all of our fruit trees, greens and herbs, so that was the first space we tackled. We brought in fresh soil by the bagful, added a generous amount of vermicompost, used natural products for pest-control and began periodically enriching the soil with our own kitchen compost, thanks to our newly adopted wet-waste recycling habits. In keeping with the times, we also adopted smarter plant watering solutions. With Bengaluru’s generous sunshine and rainfall doing their part, things slowly began to look up.

What we did not expect was how quickly our garden would respond. In just a few months, our once barren water apple tree surprised us with its very first fruit. A small but heartwarming reward for our efforts!

Water apple, also known as rose apple, wax apple, java apple, or bell fruit is a tropical fruit known for its crisp texture and refreshing, mildly sweet flavor. It makes for a good snack especially in the hot summers. 

That said, there was only so much of the fruit we could finish on its own, so I began thinking of ways to elevate this humble (and somewhat bland) fruit. The water apple from our tree is the small and white variety. It isn't very sweet but has a pleasant juicy texture. A family member suggested making a beetroot and water apple salad with a yogurt-based dressing. I thought it was an interesting idea, so I decided to give it a try.

The first attempt turned out really well, but it got me thinking about how I could enhance the flavor and texture even more. I made it a second time, then a third, each time experimenting with subtle tweaks. The version I’m sharing today is the one I’m finally happy with. The salad is fresh, balanced, flavorful and most importantly, has earned my children's seal of approval.

Let me give you the nutritional rundown of this salad:

• Beetroot is rich in nitrates (great for heart health and blood pressure), folate, and antioxidants (like betalains)
• Both water apples and iceberg lettuce are low in calories and packed with hydration
• Green apples are lower in natural sugar and calories compared to red apples and provide more fiber, vitamin C, vitamin K and antioxidants
• Red onions and garlic offer vitamin C, B vitamins (B6, folate), potassium, and trace amounts of minerals 
• Yogurt adds creaminess, probiotics, and a small dose of calcium and protein
• The addition of walnuts gives crunch and omega-3s
• The incorporation of fresh mint and dill into the dressing brightens up the flavor and provides additional nutrients

I have always loved the deep color and earthy flavor of beetroot, so that naturally became the star of the salad. The water apples add a juicy crunch, as does the iceberg lettuce. I thought green apples would lend a nice tartness which they did. Fresh herbs are a must for me in any salad; they instantly lift the flavors, so I always recommend them. Walnuts are my go-to for salads, so they made it in by default. As for the cranberries and feta cheese, those were added simply because I count them among some of my favourite ingredients. And I love a good yoghurt-based salad dressing because it is not only light, creamy and easy to infuse flavor into but less calorific and nutritious to boot. 

You will notice that I haven't called my salad beetroot-water apple salad and that is intentional. The only reason I've used water apples in my salad is because I had them as I've already mentioned. This salad will work fine with just apples or pears too. I have included plenty of substitutions and optional ingredients to make this recipe more accommodating and adaptable to what you have on hand. 

So, here's presenting my rendition of beetroot-apple salad. Lettuce eat!